BESPOKE SHOES PROCESS
THE LEADING ITALIANO BESPOKE SHOEMAKER
Beautifully made, perfectly fitting bespoke shoes and orthopaedic footwear
At ITALIANO MADE we have been making beautiful bespoke shoes and boots for over 150 years. We have built-up a world-wide reputation for providing high quality, perfectly fitting shoes and boots, and we continue to use traditional, highly-skilled shoemaking techniques and the highest quality materials.
We also use world-leading technology to ensure accurate fit and the best possible support for your foot condition. We have an outstanding 3D foot scanning system and we use the most powerful CAD software for shoe last and orthotic design. So we can capture the precise shape of your feet and then design bespoke shoe lasts that provide the exact fit and design that you require.
Our bespoke last making process is the most advanced in the world, but the skills that we apply to the making of your shoes remain traditional and timeless. Hand finished beech lasts, individual pattern designs, leather clicking, closing and making - all done by the most skilled craftsmen in the industry.
At ITALIANO MADE we are dedicated to making wonderful footwear, to fit feet of any shape or size.
CLASSIC BESPOKE SHOES
ITALIANO MADE We are shoemaker for our classic bespoke shoes.
We use a unique combination of technology and craftsmanship to make certain that your bespoke footwear will be exactly right for your feet, both in terms of its fit and style.
Most of our bespoke shoe customers visit our shop in Marylebone, London for their initial assessment and subsequent fittings. We also have a national network of fitting centres where we can meet you for fittings and, by arrangement, your first assessment and scan using our mobile 3D foot scanning system.
If you are completely unable to travel we are also happy to offer you a home visitor our new Online Ordering and Fitting Service.
OUR BESPOKE SHOEMAKING SERVICE
Assessing your foot
The first step is to ensure that we fully understand your foot condition and what you want from your shoes. It may be that you have entirely normal feet and simply want a fine pair of bespoke shoes or boots. Alternatively, you may suffer from one of a range of foot problems that require a proper assessment. Here at James Taylor & Son we have orthopaedic footwear specialists with many years of experience in dealing with all kinds of orthopaedic and medical foot problems. We also work with other specialists, including your own clinician, to ensure we have a full understanding of your needs.
Choosing a style
We have a wide range of shoe and boot styles that you can see in our shop, and we will advise you on which of those would be most suitable for your feet. We have a range of men’s styles and ladies' styles that we display in our shop in Marylebone. We can also make shoes and boots to any design, based on samples, photographs or your own drawings and ideas. And, of course, we can make your footwear in any colours and materials you wish.
Our unique shoemaking process
Our bespoke shoemaking service begins with a full 3D scan of your feet, using the most advance foot scanning device in the world. It captures a precise digital cast of your feet, and allows our last maker to design an elegant and correctly fitting pair of bespoke shoes lasts that are unique to you as a customer.
We test that first stage using a transparent (and recyclable) plastic shoe so that we can actually see your feet "inside" the lasts. We then make any minor modifications to your lasts before designing your upper patterns according to the style you have chosen. Again, this design is fully tested using either a leather "mock-up" shoe or a further transparent one with your shoe design illustrated in detail.
As soon as both you and the maker are fully satisfied with the fit and style, we proceed to make the actual shoes using the leathers you have chosen. These are typically made to a classic West End "try-on" where a temporary sole and heel is added to check the final fit. Then the real soles and heels are attached, the shoes are checked and polished, and they are ready for collection.
Our guarantee to you
We guarantee that our work will meet the highest possible standards of fit and design. Our bespoke shoemaking service ensures that you will have many opportunities to check and modify our designs as we develop them, so you can be completely confident that the end result will be exactly what you want. This continues after the finished shoes are made to ensure that the fit is successful in the long term, including any minor modifications that you may require once they are worn in.
BESPOKE ORTHOPAEDIC SHOES
ITALIANO MADE orthopaedic shoemaking service
James Taylor & Son is the UK's leading manufacturer of high quality, fully bespoke orthopaedic shoes and boots. We can handle any type of foot problem and the medical conditions we regularly deal with include diabetes, arthritis, polio, bunions and osteoporosis, as well as the consequences of accidents and injuries.
Our orthopaedic shoemaking service is the most technologically advanced in the world. It includes the world's leading 3D foot scanning system to capture a perfect digital cast of your feet and the most powerful CAD/CAM software in the industry to design your bespoke lasts and upper patterns. Our technology and unrivalled orthopaedic expertise means that you can be absolutely confident of the highest level of accuracy in the fit and design of your footwear.
An orthopaedic shoemaking service based on clinical need
The styles, materials, timeframes and fitting processes used by James Taylor & Son are based entirely on your individual clinical needs. For urgent needs we can make you a complete, perfectly fitted pair of orthopaedic shoes or boots within a matter of weeks, including the making of fully bespoke lasts and the provision of detailed test fittings.
We can also build our shoemaking service around your individual schedules and timeframes and co-ordinate our work with that of your own clinicians and medical care plan. Our service is highly flexible and centered wholly around your particular requirements.
High quality and attractive footwear
We can offer a wide range of shoe styles that are suitable for all types of foot condition and we will always aim to make your shoes and boots as attractive as possible. We also use the highest quality leathers and soling materials and we have a huge range for you to choose from.
A long term supportive relationship
The James Taylor & Son orthopaedic shoemaking service continues well beyond the supply of your first pair of shoes or boots. We offer you a long term partnership to ensure that your footwear continues to be comfortable and supportive and we are always happy to make any adjustments where needed.
Our footwear is made with the highest quality materials and is designed to be full repairable, so you can expect them to give you many, many years of service. Of course, we will always be delighted to make you further pairs if you need them.
How to order
You can access our orthopaedic shoemaking service by making an appointment to visit our Marylebone shop or at any of our National Fitting Centres. If you are unable to travel you can also arrange a Home Visit or use our Online Ordering and Fitting Service.
Custom orthotics or insoles can make an enormous difference to your foot comfort and help alleviate a wide range of foot and bio-mechanical conditions. They can be ordered at our London shop or through our Online Orthotics service.
To obtain the benefits of custom orthotics it is essential that they work successfully with your footwear. That is why, at James Taylor & Son, our skilled orthopaedic shoemakers will work with both your orthotics and your shoes to ensure that they deliver the best possible combination of fit and support.
Conditions that can be alleviated through our custom orthotics include
Pronation and Supination
Flat Feet & Dropped Arches
Plantar Fasciitis/Heel Spur
Corns and Calluses
Illness related problems - Diabetic Feet, Polio, Paraplegia, Osteoporosis
Accident damage & post surgery recovery
At James Taylor & Son we offer two types of custom orthotic service:
Orthotics with Assessment involving a visit to our shop to see one of our specialists. We will discuss your issues in depth and take a detailed 3D scan of your feet. Your insoles are then designed using our CAD technology to meet your requirements and fitted accurately into your shoes. A prescription by an external clinical specialist can also be used for this work, or we can copy an existing orthotic design.
Online Custom Orthotics based on a medical grade foam impression box. This is sent to you with some simple instructions and allows us to design your orthotics to exactly fit the shape of your plantar surface, using the correct materials and support elements to provide complete comfort for your feet. You can click here to order our Custom Orthotics online or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Ready-to-Wear from James Taylor & Son
We are delighted to offer two distinct ranges of ready-to-wear footwear, both of which meet our high standards of style and workmanship.
High quality Goodyear-welted shoes are synonymous with classic English shoemaking. But, in fact, a few other countries also adopted this technique in the early days of mechanisation and Portugal has always been one of the main sources of this type of shoemaking.
Carlos Santos founded his shoemaking factory in 1942 and has been making classic Goodyear-welted footwear for over 70 years. Santos Shoes make a wide range of quintessentially English styled shoes in traditional box calf leathers. They also specialise in beautiful patina finishes, creating a unique look that can be as discreet or bold as you wish.
The quality of Santos Shoes footwear is quite wonderful. They are affordably priced but they are made to a standard that would cost at least double from an English maker. We are very pleased to have an association with Carlos Santos and we stock a small range of their classic footwear.
From time to time we commission the making of a small range of ready-to-wear that we offer under our own brand. These are classic styles made from the highest quality materials and manufactured using a traditional Goodyear-welted construction.
The James Taylor & Son ready-to-wear brand delivers the highest standards of workmanship at an affordable price. We currently have a small range of classic styles and expect to expand this further in the future.
High Quality Shoe and Boot Repairs
As leading bespoke shoemakers James Taylor & Son can offer you a wide range of high quality shoe and boot repairs.
We can re-sole and re-heel all types of footwear to the highest standard, and add thin rubber stick-on soling to prevent slipping and wear. We can also carefully stretch shoes and boots to fit you more comfortably and make a wide range of specialist adaptions to standard footwear, including adding raises and wedges. Please note that our repair service does not extend to repairing damaged uppers, as this is normally impossible to do to a high standard.
James Taylor & Son offers a repairs service for most leading makes of shoes and boots. Key brands that we can repair include:
Crockett & Jones
Yves Saint Laurent
Please note that we also very happy to work on any shoes or boots where a high quality repair is needed, and we can also offer a mail order repair service for customers outside of London.
James Taylor & Son is one of only four of the original West End Master Bootmakers and one of the longest established bespoke shoemakers in Britain. So you can be confident that we will offer you accurate advice and an excellent repair service for the shoes you love, regardless of their brand or value.
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Italiano mad bespoke customies your clothes and wardrobe
Start by consulting our staff about your wardrobe. With years of experience between them, they will be able to advise on your requirements and on exactly what’s necessary to build the perfect, flexible, working wardrobe. Once you have decided on the garments you wish to have made, our cutters will help you choose the best fabric. With 4,000 samples of cloth to choose from, our cutters have a gift of knowing what fabric will work best for any style, which is partly what makes their role in the process so pivotal.
Once the fabric is chosen and a style decided upon, the cutter takes your measurements from which he or she cuts your own personal paper pattern.
The paper pattern is laid out on the cloth and chalked around. The cloth is then cut by hand, leaving extra cloth at certain seams or ‘inlays’. This allows for the suit to be altered at a later date if your weight changes. Material trimmings, like natural wool, canvas and linen, are added to the garment’s construction to give the suit its classic Italiano Made .
The garment is then assigned to a highly skilled tailor. That same tailor will be dedicated to your needs so long as you remain a customer of Italiano Made Tailors . The tailor will have a close relationship with you to ensure there is a continuity of service and consistency of quality.
We feel it’s important that you trust your tailor to deliver your preferred cut and style.
The tailor canvasses the suit by hand ready for the first fitting. Our cutter fits the suit and at this point starts to alter the suit to fit and enhance your posture
After the first fitting, the garment is marked up with all readjustments and then completely taken apart and re-cut. The paper pattern is adjusted at the same time so it can be used again for all future orders. The garment is then given back to the tailor to be prepared for the next fitting
At the second fitting, alterations and amendments are refined, giving the suit its fit and comfort. The suit is checked over for break over shoe, seat of trouser and drape.
After the final alterations, a tailor hand-makes the buttonholes and hand finishes the suit inside and out. Only the best trimmings and pure natural fibres, such as hand silks, are used, giving the suit its longevity and lasting finish.
The Italiano Made . suit is then ready for the final fitting. You’ll be given advice on how best to clean, press and care for the suit to maintain its shape. Each suit is numbered and logged so we are easily able to source any necessary materials to repair even minor damage that might occur. This logging and numbering process also means that subsequent orders will require fewer fittings and so the bespoke process for your second suit will be much quicke
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One of the aspects our clients love the most about the bespoke experience is the sheer breadth of options that are available for a suit. We've previously explored how it is these small details, such as the lining, that can really make your suit pop. But what about the trousers? Often overlooked, a well-fitted pair of trousers really brings together the entire look. Read on to find out about a few of the different choices available for your bespoke trousers...
The fit of the trousers is something that tends to move in line with fashion trends (think the extreme wide legs of the 70s) but there are a couple of options that are timeless. You could go for more of a neutral silhouette in a classic fit if you're looking for something to stand the test of time. In recent years, there has been a trend for a more tapered fit, which looks great in a slightly shorter fit in lighter weight cloths. Alternatively, a wider leg has been seen making a resurgence on the catwalks, which can look fantastic for a pair of standalone trousers or as part of a tweed three-piece.
As with the fit of the trousers, the length is also subject to different fashion trends. For a timeless style, we'd recommend the classic fit. This means that the end of the trousers hit the top of your shoe, causing a single 'break' in the fabric. A break is where the fabric folds slightly inwards as it hits the shoe. If the trousers have more than a single break, they can look rumpled and untidy. Recent years have seen a trend for a shorter fit on trousers, with the option to flash a bit of ankle or some snazzy socks. You might also prefer to wear your trousers slightly longer. The typed of shoe and the heel height you wear with the trousers will also affect the length, so we tend to ask people to come in for fittings wearing the shoes they're most likely to wear with the suit.
BELT LOOPS, SIDE ADJUSTERS OR BRACES?
On of the absolute musts for a bespoke suit is that you feel confident and assured when you put it on. You don't want to feel uncomfortable or be worried that your trousers are at risk of falling down! To combat this problem, there are a few options. The first are belt loops, which are often seen on more casual trousers, such as jeans or chinos. While this can help you feel secure, a belt can often look bulky in contrast to the fit of the suit and can cut the silhouette of the suit in. They also look out of place if you forget to wear a belt. At King & Allen, we tend to recommend the second option, side adjusters. These come in two different styles: buckles and buttons. The buckles work by a sliding strap that tightens and loosens the waistband. Buttons work by fastening a tab to one of three different buttons. Buckles tend to be more adjustable, so again we tend to recommend these. The other option is braces. They work by attaching to brace buttons which are placed on the inside of the waistband. They give you a lot of room on the waist measurement and tend to be the most forgiving in fluctuations to your waistline!
There are a few different options in terms of pockets on your trousers. You can choose to have no pockets at all, which leads to a more slick look but perhaps not as practical. You might choose side pockets on their own or also choose to have pockets at the back. We'd always recommend not keeping too many items in your pockets, as this can sometimes warp the fabric and ruin the sleek look of your suit. In terms of the style, you could choose straight pockets, slanted (above left) or cross pockets (above right), as well as other, more unique designs.
We offer three options for pleats (the fold of fabric just below the waistband). You can choose to have no pleats at all, which creates a seamless, flat look at the front of the trouser, which has a more modern appeal. You can also opt for a single or a double pleat. Pleats have a more classic, old-world look (think Cary Grant or Katherine Hepburn) and can add some texture and drape to the trousers. You can also choose between forward pleats (facing towards the inside leg), or reverse pleats (facing towards the pockets). As Chloe, our tailoring consultant at Surbiton and Liverpool Street says 'I'd recommend reverse pleats for women, as it gives more room over the pocket area.'
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Our bespoke shirts are a perfect companion to a fitted suit, or casual jacket, a wide variety of different styles, materials and designs are available. These are ideal for weddings and formal events, but can be designed in a way that you’ll also be able to wear for more casual occasions.
SHIRTS FABRIC SAMPLE
You can choose from a collection of luxury fabrics, and customise the trims, buttons and colour threads, and even your initials hand sewn on the cuff, to create a truly unique shirt. We’ve worked closely with the best fabric suppliers from all over the world, including high-quality manufacturers in England,Italy & Switzerland.
We’re happy to offer a massive range of high-quality cottons sourced from locations around the world, available at your discretion. As well as the variety of cotton, we also offer bespoke choices for the smaller details that really make a suit unique, such as buttons, trims and fabric inlays.
Each shirt is available with your choice of style and hand-measured by Geoff, Wes or Scott. Prices start at £195 depending on the choice of cloth and whether you want the shirt hand-finished by our team. These shirts are also available within 3-4 weeks.
Smart or CASUAL
Think of a tailored shirt and the first item that comes to mind is a sharp formal shirt, and while Souster and Hicks does offer a wide range of formal fittings, we also have plenty of casual materials and fabrics for a more laid-back approach. A professionally-tailored shirt keeps trim to your figure and makes a subtle statement about the effort you put into your look. Whether it’s for a birthday party, wedding or for everyday wear at work, there’s something to suit you in our range of shirt choices
Think of a tailored shirt and the first item that comes to mind is a sharp formal shirt, and while we offer a wide range of formal options, we also have plenty of casual materials, such as linen, cashmere & cotton mixes, through to unique floral & jacquard designs, this, coupled with a more softly styled collar gives you a stunning casual shirt that fits perfectly and breathes well in warmer climates.
Your perfect WEDDING SHIRT
Let us help you design the perfect wedding shirt, for abroad on a beach or a traditional English church wedding, the shirt can be designed with trim and detail to compliment your suit, her dress or any colour theme within your big day, even down to the date of the wedding on your cuff.
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ITALIANO MADE BESPOKE OVERCOATS
Italiano made offers big range of bespoke garments from suits , trousers , shirts, to overcoats.
we can help you to design and style, bespoke made garments for your wardrobe.
You can chose your customise fabric and style in our tailoring studio located in Soho London.
please make an appointment .
We make all styles of overcoat and have a large selection of beautiful overcoating materials. Whether you like to wear a full-length coat finishing mid-calf which is perfect for keeping you very warm, or you prefer something cut shorter and in a more fitted style, we can make the perfect coat for you. As well as classic coatings, we can also make any style of overcoat in tweed materials.
We completed the look with the following design details: large patch pockets with flaps, dark grey real horn buttons, burgundy lining, turn up cuff on the sleeve.
An outcome: a timeless staple for Italiano made wardrobe. Complemented and noticed wherever we go.
ITALIANO MADE BESPOKE
Overcoats - what are they?
Classic tailored overcoats adapted to modern lifestyle. Integrated subtle beauty with clean lines that prove irresistible.
Choose from double-breasted or single breasted overcoat styles. We also tailor bespoke peacoats & raincoats.
There’s nothing quite like the elegant fit & unique look that a bespoke overcoat affords.
How Do We Tailor Them?
Timeless. Minimalist. Tailored to perfection. Constructed in light & heavy weight pure wools & cashmeres. Tailor made in silhouette & length just right for you. Tailored neat, clean lines in their bareness reveal the quality of the garment’s make.
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DETAILS OF THE FABRIC
This is a pure wool from a mill in Yorkshire. We have a huge range of cloths to choose from – including wools, cottons, silks and linen’s….and colours too!
ITALIANO MADE BESPOKE WAISTCOAT
We were asked to make this special waistcoat for a customer for his wedding. Special, of course, because it was his wedding, but special too because of the colour and the piping. The colour looks fantastic and the piping, all worked by hand and very hard to do, brings it to life very elegantly. It compliments the morning suit beautifully.
THE CONSTRUCTIONMade and cut in London. As with every waistcoat we make, unless you choose our Express service, the waistcoat will take 8-9 weeks to make – we have a half way baste fitting and then a forward baste fitting before the waistcoat is finished and delivered.
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BESPOKE LEATHER JACKET
with Italiano made bespoke
you can chose your leather metrial and style and customies your leather jackets...
In addition to commissioning a bespoke leather garment for the exceptional quality and personalised fit, the bespoke process also allows you to choose every detail to create the exact piece that you want. The variety of leather garments on the high street is limited to what is in fashion, and often the leather may be of a poor quality and standard of make, with prices reflecting the designer name rather than the components used. Additionally, for many people finding the right size and fit in leather on the high street can be very difficult, and this is where the option of bespoke is appealing.
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BESPOKE LEATHER BAGS
Imagined by you, created by Italiano Made
Every item we manufacture here at Italiano Made is designed to give you years of enjoyment. So just imagine the delight of a beautiful, full-grain leather bag that’s hand-crafted especially for you.
Our bespoke service, available across our entire range of bags, offers you the chance to work with our talented team to create a fully personalised creation you’ll cherish forever. You’ll choose every customisable detail, from the leather type and colour to lining fabric and fittings. The result? A one-off Italiano bag made to your exact specifications.
We can also finish your unique piece with a personalised engraving – anything from a classic monogram to a handwritten message. This is a particularly popular choice when our items are given as gifts.
Personalisation options for custom-made bags offer infinite decoration options to make a bag unique. The fabric choice can reflect your brand from sustainable natural cottons in many different weights plus linings fit for purpose. The colour of the fabric can be perfected by dying it or printing it. Then the size of the bag can be anything from the tiniest of pouches to the largest bag to transport a table in or a multi-faceted bag for tools. Choice of closures include zips, poppers, draw cord, ties or elastic. Perhaps the bag needs to be waterproof or should have a metal badge? Padding or dividers can also be added. This handy guide will outline some of the personalisation option elements you can customise your bag with. Maybe there’s something not here that you want. Ask and we’ll find it for you. Anything is possible.
The quality of hand stitching is key to the finish of bespoke leather bags. A beautiful stitch is a real sign of genuine craftsmanship that you can't get using a machine. Hand stitching involves threading two needles on a waxed length of thread and then running the thread through the holes to secure the stitch. Italiano made uses traditional Saddle Stitch and Box Stitch techniques.